Gouache as a medium is a water-based paint, comprising natural pigment, water and gum arabic. A form of this paint, with honey as a binder, was used in Ancient Egyptian painting, European illuminated manuscripts and Persian miniatures, and so has roots that date back over twelve centuries. Mughal miniatures, often described as watercolor, are in fact superlative examples of this opaque painting technique, enabling the clarity of powerful patterned borders, as well as the ability to render shimmering, transparent surfaces of fabrics and architectural materials. The term gouache is derived from the Italian guazzo (meaning “mud”), and refers to paintings using this opaque method. It dates to the early 16th-century practice of applying oil paint over a tempera base to create a matte effect, something this medium is known for. It was in 18th century France, that gouache became associated with opaque water media.

Luxury jewellery houses such as Van Cleef & Arpels – a French company created in 1896 - have gouache of every design the house has created. Cartier’s archives are home to over 30,000 of these sketches, again dating back to the 19th century. The addition of a gouache to the sale of a jewel at auction can add up to 20% to the sale price of a work. Often, jewellery houses would show clients the gouache of new concepts and jewels, customers choosing to order work directly from the page. In many respects, this is still how bespoke commissioning works today, although often the “rendering” is now done digitally, through CAD or technical drawings.